Good morning.

The mountain I wake up to every morning can be sheepish. Today she went into hiding a mere 20 minutes after I opened my doors to her. She was misty-clad in a silvery shawl of clouds. I walked upstream to do some yoga on the riverbed, turned around and she had disappeared completely.

I am thoughrily enjoying my days off. Yesterday I hiked to the top of Bowen Falls with 5 others. The path is steep and lined with ropes and ladders. It leads you to a large black pipe which funnels our water for drinking and power. You balance on that for a while until coming to a clearing midway between the top of a second ridge and the bottom where the water flushes into the fiord. It was a beautiful sun soaked day. We stayed at the top for maybe two hours bathing in warm delicious and sleepy sun rays.

Not sure what I am up to today. A few people are doing the same hike today, though going further, bushwhacking to what I hear is a even more scenic spot. I can use some Karen time though, so might bike in the opposite direction to the Chasm, about 7k's from here to lovely hanging bridges and waterfalls.

Here are some websites, one for the department of conservation with information on fiordland and some of the hikes, great and small around me, as well as Milford Road and wildlife here. The other is a webpage for Benny and Henning, two Germans wwoofing their way around the world and all around nice guys.

http://www.doc.govt.nz/Explore/002~Tracks-and-Walks/By-Region/013~Southland/Explore-Fiordland/Walks-from-the-Milford-Road/index.asp

http://wegetaround.de

Penguins, Dolphins and Seals oh my!

I just got back from a morning-long snorkeling experience! I have never been snorkeling before and now feel as though I must learn to dive. I must! I will! Tara and I went along the Sea Dragon, a small motor boat, with Dave and Jaime of Tawaki Dive. We buzzed into the fiord, stopping at two separate dive spots. The other 4 aboard were repeat divers, so got to go down to 18 meters in the less-than-warm fiord water. Tara and I remained buoyantly on top, spying on sea urchins as big as my head, fish of varying sizes and colors, 11 legged giant star fish and several sea cucumbers as large as my arm. We saw over 15 dolphins as we were loading the boat in, and later a few more played by our boat. We got to play near waterfalls, spotted my FIRST out of water penguins (the tawaki, or fiordland crested penguin, one of the rarest species in the world) and several seals sunbathing.

Our second time in we got to wear weight belts so could duck dive a few feet deeper.
Life is good.

That's Cold As, eh?

Milford seems to be enjoying a drought of peculiar magnitude. It has been 8 days now without rain of any substantial amount. Lucky us! These lovely sunny days lead to stunning sunsets, normally setting far from our view, we witness the magnificent after glow of pink-red clouds and reflected fuschia mountain tops.

Yesterday however, I watched the sun setting over the Tasman Sea. Immediately after work Jackie and I ran to the ferry terminal to board the one of Mitre Peak's boats, taking lodge and cafe staff out for a sunset cruise with free beer and wine... just because. (ok, a little bribery never hurt anyone though... we are the ones sending customers their way...)Earlier in the day I decided not to go... work would not quite be finished and I was a bit tired and hungry and BLAH BLAH. I have learned my lesson. The cruise was AMAZING. There were only 15 of us on board, cruising amidst 600 meter high cliffs towards the sleepy orange glow of an open sea. We saw the setting sun reflecting off a 125 meter waterfall, spraying us in several wet rainbows. We got off on the edge of the sea to climb up to a lighthouse where "only 20 of the 5 million people who have passed through here since it was made have been to. " I saw penguins swimming, seals basking and a red deer bounding along the cliffs. The highlight was being the first to jump off the boat into the cold of the sea. I am one tough New Englander I think, because the shock of the temperature was actually not too shocking. Picture 15 of your coworkers stripping down to what was just barely appropriate to scream into the air from the top level of a cruise ship into the a fiord. Not a bad way to end a day. Afterwards we watched the sun slip beneath the fiery water, magnificent and colorful, calm and perfect.


I am on my days off now and plan to enjoy them completely... reading and tramping and camping and drawing and practicing my espagnol. My senses are awake here. Did I mention I am happy?

"You're Legend."

Hello, all. Sorry for the long time between blogging. Not to fret, all is well!

The week has been fantastic. I finished off my days off with a trip to Queenstown with Tara and Becca. I hadn't realized the extent to which I missed a good old fashioned ladies night out on the town. Before coming here I had the privelege of having wonderful, beautiful and hilarious women at my side from the early morning to late at night. The luxury that is having brilliant roommates, ones that will jump under the covers with you in the middle of a thunderstorm and bring you a coffee when you are rushed to work... these are beautiful things.

I have found some lovely ladies here, though, and am excited about the friendships forming and yet to form.

Becca and I drove into Queenstown; a beautiful four hour drive through jagged mountains, sandy mountains, grassy rolling mountains, large green fields, large white fields, cows, sheep, a few more sheep and a home or farm here and there.(Tara, that little sneaky bugger, managed a flight) Queenstown balances friendly-like on the edge of an enormous blue lake. Though I haven't been to Vail or Breckenridge, I would imagine them to be quite similar to Queenstown. There were loads of pretty young people; euro-ski trendy and sipping cappuccino's with attractive dogs and happy animated expressions. We stayed free in the Bumble's Backpackers (oh, the benifits of being affiliated with the Milford Lodge!)and spent lots of money on other things (Mexican, beer, FURGburger..). It felt good to be a consumer for a day. I now have a new wallet (yay!), some housewares for my cozy home-van, and over one hundred dollars in books.(Tengo los libros. I was very book starved... reading The Time Traveler's Wife, quite interesting... bought the new Zadie Smith book too, and and Hugo's "Learn Spanish in 3 months" book.As well as drawing book, colored pencils and pastels!)

Back to work here and that has been bueno as well. I feel clear headed and happy and grateful everyday. I get to walk a magnificent road to work every morning and home again at night, experiencing the various colors of the day at every hour, Milford is strange and dramatic and timeless. I feel busy, always busy... with good friends forming, and waterfalls to play in. We share bonfires and drink wine by candlelight. Last night I sat outside the large windows of the lodge admiring a group of 10 middle aged Israelis. The were lingering over a shared dinner and several bottles of wine, joyously, loudly, obliviously singing songs they all knew, clapping and laughing and being entirely here. It was beautiful.

I realize this sounds sappy, maybe overly enthusiastic or embellished but it is not. I am happy here. The layers of everyday life that we strap on to ourselves unknowingly; cell phones, car payments, job stresses, daily news... all these things are stripped away. Life is simple and pleasures are everywhere, looking up, looking right and left... at a full moon or the deep blue of night. It is a sort of relief feeling I have here, like after you sigh out a deep deep breath.

My dear friend Ben left this morning to return to France. Bon Voyage, Benjamin! Mi Manchi. (this is some weird combo of french-italianish mumbo jumbo.)

There was a summer when I was maybe ten years old when Ashley, Karen and I spent many an afternoon walking in the knee-to-thigh deep mud of the former creek behind our house. Yesterday's trek was reminiscent of those lazy summer days.

The Tuteko Valley hike is 2 km from milford lodge, and about 6 hours round trip from start to finish. It was a gorgoues sunny day, and being my first day off I was energized at 7 am to enjoy it. I have learned a new definition of lush while being here. The forest is literally dripping with water, growth and decay. The hike itself is fairly easy in that it is not very steep but it is very wet. Very muddy. Quite an experience to squish through a rainforest on a sunny afternoon with only the sounds of birds and swishing trees to keep you company. My new boots now look like seasoned travllers after sinking nearly knee deep in what appeared to be solid mud a few times. Laughing in the forest by myself, at myself, this is cool.

The trail is mostly mixture of forest, moss gardens, small streams and swampy areas, but opens at the end to the Tuteko River; with zillions of smooth stones drawing a line through the mountain valley. I stayed for about an hour, eating my lunch and lounging in the sun like a happy baby seal.

Nudity, flying and fire sticks.

Kiwi's are continuing to surprise me with their hospitality, humor, friendly nature, and most recently, drinking habits. Saturday evening, ladies evening at the pub, not only drew Milford's finest young women dressed to impress (does wearing earrings negate the fact that my "dressy" shoes are my keen's?) but also happened to fall on National Nude Day. Thus, several of Milford's finest (ahem) young men joined us at the pub completely nude. Now, in some places this would seem offensive, inappropriate, or just plain in bad taste, but here their forage into public nakedness was greeted with cheers, laughter and a few more rounds of drinks. I think I will forever remember the round white bums of certain boat crew members. Cheers to that, I suppose.

Yesterday may have been my most favorite Milford day yet. Though slightly sleep deprived due to a late night Saturday, I woke up cheerful to sunny skies. Is there anything better to do on a beautiful clear day than go for another cruise down the fiord? Yes, and that is to go for a scenic flight through the fiord and mountains. There are several perks to being a "local" as I am after just over a week. When Nathan, a boistorious jolly pilot offered a free seat on his next take off I was not one to refuse. I took off my apron and followed him to the airstrip. With four others we quickly took off the short runway and flew along the incredibly high cliffs, over the mountains to stunning waterfalls, mountain lakes and jagged snow covered peaks. There were times when our left wing seemed only inches away from the cliff faces. We flew south, then west to the Tasman and looped back into the fiord. The beauty here is truly indescribable and astounding.

Shaking and jolted awake, I returned to work to finish closing for the day. How many people can say that they have the ability to leave work in the middle of the day to go for a quick flight over scenic paradise? Back at the lodge I suggested a campfire on the sand up the river. Some were interested but not many were motivated, so I took it upon myself to get it going. I have some skills, people, truly. By 9 my fire was roaring and I had helpers gathering wood. By 10 all our staff were around. The night was clear and the stars were glittering. A few talented women brought their fire poi (fire balls ont the end of strings that you dance with) and made beautiful fire art to the sound of beating hand drums. Our talented 18 year old australian impressed us with his fire stick throwing abilities as well. Fires seem to create a certain ambiance; reflective, quiet and intimate. Needless to say, and great end to a great day.

This morning I woke up at seven to the lovely singing of some sort of bird. It is my last day of work before four days off. Loads to do in these four days! Kayaking, hiking, a trip to town, another cruise?

I'll keep you posted!

Snow and cookies.

Last night was the most clear beautiful cold night I have had in a while. There are zillions of stars here... all new to me. I am finding it quite fun to find my own constallations without knowledge of other's ideas. Last night I very clearly identified a a child fishing on a long arcing line. There is one extremly bright light right near Mitre Peak... it must be a planet. Venus perhaps?



The night also brought snow... not sticking, but definitely flaking. By 6 it was sunny again. The weather here is crazy.

I've discovered packaged cookies called Cookie Time. Yum. I baked oatmeal-choco-raisin cookies tonight for fellow staffmates. (trying to earn their friendship through food goodness, of course.)

Nighty night!

Sweet As, Bro!

I moved into my new home! Welcome to a lovely, febreeze smelling, 70's style orange trimmed CAMPERVAN! OK, so it is not in pristine condition, but it has style to spare. Check out my vintage flowered curtains, fake formica countertops, artificial wood paneling and sexy orange stripes. She even has a river side view... door opening towards water and mountains. Not too shabby. (a little bit shabby though)

Regardless it is nice to have my own space. Any traveler will tell you reprieve from living from a backpack is gladly accepted, even in the fomr of a room on wheels.

Life in Milford is peaceful these days. I've been going into work at 10am and getting home around 6:30 after our chefs cook dinner for all of the staff. It is nice to all sit down together for a meal and form some semblance of family.

Evenings are filled chatting, drinking wine and occasionally watching a movie. There is not much to do after lights are out at 11, so I am getting plenty of sleep.

My campervan also has an extra bed for visitors. Any takers? It would be a shame to pass this up folks!

I know pictures will be helpful, but it will take me a while to get those uploaded. Bear with me folks. Oh, and I need books! If anyone is feeling generous please let me know and I will give you my address. :-)

"Two cupsochino please."

Today was day 4(ish) of my cafe working life, and I got to leave early to celebrate the sunshine a bit. The Blue Duck Cafe is not the sort of place I would like to one day own, but my coworkers are quirky and the environment cannot be beat. The cafe itself is in the difficult position of creating good food really fast. Most customers are off of buses and need a quick bite of nourishment before departing for their crusie, therefore we have waves of hungry anxious people who want their coffee 5 minutes ago. New Zealand doesn't do filter coffee either, so all have to be whizzed thrrough the espresson machine. The set up is all wrong too, inefficiently laid out so as to delay coffees even longer. Most kiwi folks drink "flat white"s (espresso with steamed milk) or "long blacks" (an americano...) but lattes and cappucinos are popular.

Right now there is a short menu of hot foods: burgers, fries soup, toasted sandwiches etc and a kitchen to make the food as the orders arrive. Again, somewhat inefficient and cannot handle the volume of people. All this will changes soon as the cafe becomes buffet style. Picture a cafeteria rather than european style cafe and this is what we will become.

I've mostly been working with Martin, a 20 year old German philosopher type who is a perfectionist and insists on telling me that every coffee I make is wrong. (ahem.) and Kendall, nice bloke from Virgina who has good taste in music and a dry sense of humor. Rumor is there are two girls there as well but they have been on their days off.

I've met bunches of the "locals" many who have returned for another season or have lived here through the winter. There is a nice family vibe, and everyone seems to take care of one another. I don't have to pay to go on cruises, kayaking, and even helicopter rides! I can take the bus out of Milford for free as well. There are perks to being here indeed.

There is not a grocery, or a post office or book store in sight, but all and all a pretty cool place to be.

Off to my first Milford hike...

Cheers!