Open Roads: New Zealand

2006-08-18T11:14:00.000-05:00

I, like so many bloggers, probably have disappointed my few subscribers out there for the absence of posts in the last 3.5 months. Like many, I got burnt out not by what I was doing but by my own words. Alas, I will probably never be a writer.

Since leaving the land of my past post I have traveled to Fiji, Costa Rica, Peru, Ecuador and the Us of A.

After leaving Australia I flew back to Auckland for a few days before flying out to Fiji. Anxious for my coming travels, I did little but wander around the drizzling streets of the city trying to avoid spending money and watching movies in my scummy hostel. When Tara flew up to head to Fiji with me we first spent a few days on Waiheke Island off the coast of Auckland. The island was beautiful with small village towns, green rolling hills and long stretches of beach. We ate amazing hummus and cheese, dipped bread in the olive oil made on the island and drank Waiheke's very own wines. It was a good farewell to the country it was not hard to love and gave me time to reflect on the gift of my travels.

From Fiji we flew to Nadi and had a whirlwind few days in the Yasawa islands. Fiji is actual paradise, and I highly recommend it to anyone looking for heaven on earth. The volcanic islands woo you with soft lapping waves, white sand beaches, colorful coral and the soothing songs of the Fijian people welcoming you into their lives. I saw some of the most beautiful sunrises and sunsets of my life, swam with manta rays the size of small cars and got a really fantastic tan.

After a teary goodbye to the South Pacific I flew on a hellishly long flight with a broken television to LA where I seriously considered suicide rather than endure my nightmare of a 12 hour layover in LAX. I figured Meg would be mad at me if I didn't make it home for our next adventure, so dealt with the pain of the most extreme form of boredom and eventually arrived back on the east coast to a 5 day blur of time pass.

To save money Meg and I decided to fly from JFK, and so had to take the Fung Wah to NYC at 10pm. We arrived around in the city at 1 and had 5 hours to kill before check in for our flight to San Jose. I thought LAX was a difficult airport to lounge in, but it is the Ritz Carlton compared to JFK. It is their goal to provide the least comfortable airport in the world, with freezing cold stone benches that have immovable armrests or are curved in such away that laying down is impossible. (note- we later found out about a useful website that explains where to go to get the best night's rest in most airports around the world, unfortunately the consensus is that there is NOWHERE in JFK where one may sleep, as we redetermined on our return trip- www.sleepinginairports.com). So, we didn't sleep, boarded a plane and arrived in San Jose right before our 11 am bus to Tamarindo. Over the course of the voyage I fulfilled the planes/trains/automobiles quota, boarded a 7 hour bus and seemingly days later arrived at our beautiful little bungalow a few minutes from the beach. We slept well our first night in Costa Rica.

We spent 2.5 weeks in CR- visiting Tamirindo, Samara, La Fortuna and Puerto Viejo. We rode bikes and went for walks. We gorged ourselves on avocados and Imperials and spent a lot of time sitting on the beach reading books and catching up. By the end of our time there we were both ready for a more cultural experience and were excited and nervous to head to Peru.

Peru has become one of my most favored countries visited. It was nothing at all what I expected and also much much more than I expected. The country has beautiful cities, dry barren lands ( deserts folks, we are talking lots and lots of sand) and lush green jungles. It contains heart wrenching poverty and beautiful kind hearted people. The children are sadly more street savvy than I will ever be by the age of 4, but are still quick to smile or laugh if you turn down their offer of sweets, dolls or finger puppets. I learned a lot in Peru; about myself, my privileged life, and about people in general. If there is one thing that travel constantly reinforces in me it is the extreme sameness of all people in all places. We want the same things, crave the same comforts, share the same fears. I conquered Maccu Picchu though lost some toenails in the process. I made wonderful beautiful new friends, Teresa and Eva and swore to return to this land again.

From Peru we took an extremely painful overnight bus to 8 hour bus, topping off our travel time at over 30 hours to get to Ecuador. More scenicly beautiful than Peru, Ecuador wooed us with beautiful green hills, horses and colorful friendly people. Though something like 70 percent of the country is under the poverty line, we still felt that it was richer in comparison to Peru. The cities seemed to function correctly. The taxis had meters and radios. We spent a lot of time in Quito, salsa'd our feet off with some local Ecuadorian men and wandered through markets. My beautiful friend Leigh met us in a wonderful little hostel in Quito and with her we traveled to the coast and large market town of Otovalo. Despite some setbacks in health for my dear Meg, we all were able to salvage a pretty wonderful time in Ecuador as well.

It was hard to leave South America to come home. It has been over a month now since I have been on US soil and the culture shock is coming and going in waves. It is not necessarily the US that is doing it. I was not gone long enough to forget how our country operates, yet the change of being in one place for a long period of time is the most difficult. I am having trouble feeling that I belong here in Boston. Indeed I feel 'at home' when I am moving- on a bus or train or plane. It feels right to know no one and see something new every day.

Regardless, I am content. I have a great new job managing a cafe back in Cambridge and a glowing white new old apartment on a quiet tree lined street in Coolidge Corner. Though moneyless I feel fairly full- with great friends and intellectual stimulation all around me. The buildings do not compare to the magnificent mountains of Milford Sound, but I am adjusting to life in a city again.

That is, until the next adventure...

2006-05-19T17:55:00.000-05:00

Australian Adventures

My dear Matt leaves this morning, after missing cab 1 and feeling quite ill, poor thing. Now I am alone in Brisbane in a quiet, not entirely organized backpackers. After some deliberation, I changed my flight to Auckland to a few days earlier. I am now clicking my heels and leaving the magical land of Oz for the familiar comfort of kaNZas.

We've covered a lot of ground since Sydney. Australia is BIG, and after the small island I've been living on for the previous months, this size has been hard to get used to. We flew from Sydney to Mackay, a nothing little town with quiet humid nights. We walked for 45 minutes trying to find a restuarant, ate average food and went to sleep. Things looked up the next day, when we traveled north to Airlie Beach. The rumors I heard about this town were true, it is touristy to the extreme, but sunny and friendly with a multitude of cafes and used book stores. We stayed for a night before going out on 3 days sailing outing on the good ship "Spank Me". (I know I know). For the next several days we experienced piercing sun, lashing rain, and a pleasant exfoliating wind/salt burn around the beautiful Whitsunday Islands. In the evenings people hung out on deck listening to music and quietly talking. I usually was in a corner absorbed in a book. Always the geek.

The highlight of the voyage was diving. We went on two amazing dips underwater to the magnificent colorful coral and fish filled reefs. We fed a large fish named Elvis and got to pet his fishy sides. We touched a giant clam and slimy sea creatures. We were breathing under water! It was absolutely incredible! We snorkeled too, saw a few beautiful beaches, a aboriginal cave and a few sea turtles. It was worth every penny. (And it cost a fair few)

From Airlie we took a 10 hour bus trip to Cairns, stayed in a disgusting packpackers called Nomad's Serpant Lodge (don't go there!) then rented a car a drove up to Cape Tribulation, through the Daintree rainforest. For two days we read books and napped in the tropical surrounds. We watched rain poor from the nylon tented roof and felt completely relaxed. We stayed in lush green jungle, a few feet away from an empty sandy beach and saw such exciting jungle creatures as a huge black python hanging out in a tree, enormous Golden Orb spiders the size of my right foot and terrifying above all, the hideous jungle chicken.

Australia has been exciting, varying so much from south to north. I miss NZ though. Different pace and fewer people. I am happy about my ticket change and extra time in NZ before departing friday for the happy land of Fiji.

Hard to believe I will be home in less than two weeks though, this portion of my trip over with! It seems like I left home a mere few weeks ago.

2006-05-06T19:13:00.000-05:00

Oztralia!

I have been in this beautiful land for how how long now? A week and a half I believe... there is so much to see and do. A completely different sensory experience to the peaceful unpeopled En Zed. I am happy to be in cities again and happy to see different people and cafes and restaruants and food and buildings and sounds. My first few days in Melbourne I felt like the little mouse in the big city, but I have settled back in to the hectic dirty life of city living.

Melbourne was wonderful with loads of creative stimulation and indie pretty people and vegetarian eating. Sydney has been amazing though, and is one of the most beautiful cities I have ever seen. My first night included sipping champagne at the Opera Bar as the sun set overlooking Sydney harbor. Afterwards we went to a beautiful amazing ballet collaboration of the Australian Ballet Company and the Bangarra Dance Company in the Opera House. Is this my life?

We've had perfect warm weather and wonderful company here. Tara has been a tour guide extraordinaire. I've met loads of people, traveled to the Blue Mountains and saw my first kangaroo (and then took about 287 photos of it), been to markets all over the city, wandered through galleries and along Bondi Beach and tried new foods.

And at the last minute Jo, a beautiful woman who happens to share my day of birth decided that Sydney was where she needed to be for her 30th celebration. Lucky for me, I then had her, Adam and Rich to share my weekend in this trendy sexy town. My darling Matt arrived groggily on Friday night, and so far we have been keeping him in smiles. Our birthday was perfect,laughing so hard that my face hurt in a park overlooking the bridge and Opera house for 5 hours on a warm balmy night.

Happy happy happy.

Matt and I fly out on Wednesday, and I am looking forward to what is next, though sad to leave Sydney too.

2006-04-17T18:53:00.000-05:00

This is it! I am done! I can't believe I am leaving when it feels like a few days ago when I was twiddling my thumbs in a Chicago airport waiting for one of the many legs of my journey over here.

Tonight I am staying in Te Anau to get a bus to Orapuki where I will wander by myself in the southern coastal prettiness. Friday we are heading to Doubtful Sound (like Milford but more remote and supposedly more beautiful) for an overnight kayaking trip!

Two days later I will be boarding a plane to another country.

2006-04-16T03:45:00.000-05:00

Tomorrow is my last day of work in Milford Sound! I have mixed emotions, mostly very excited, but also thoughtful and aware of the amazing experience living in Milford has provided me. I just realized how ironic it is that before leaving home I titled my blog "Open Roads" and then traveled around the world to live at the very end of a dead end road.

I have gained confidence and work experience and life experience and love experience and have created friendships that I know will last a lifetime. I have met incredible inspiring people, and had the privilege of watching how they live nearly every facet of their lives. It has been challenging here, in many different ways, but I have learned each and every day.

Sad to leave that behind. A goodbye is worthless unless there is some loss felt.

Ok, off to a party. Woohoo.

2006-04-01T02:56:00.000-05:00

Truth be told, I began the countdown over a month ago. Now, with just over two weeks and 12 working days left in Milford, it is all becoming very real. I am not the first to leave. The last several weeks have hosted more departure drinks, cruises, parties and hugs than the rest of the season combined. I don't feel sad. I feel ready. And it is not because I am anxious to leave En- Zed, merely that I am excited for what is next. ( Australia, Fiji, South America oh my!)

It took me 6 months, but I finally completed one of NZ's "Great Walks", the Routeburn Track. The tramping culture in this country is enormous. South Islander's are a tough lot. They are farmers and fishers and hunters who feel comfortable in the mountains and all seem to know how to catch their own food and survive in the mountains for weeks on end. It could be a bit intimidating, but daily I am witness to 70 year olds who stumble off of the Milford Track all smiles and laughs.

Because hut prices are pricey during peak season ($40 per night! Much more than any hostel you will stay in) we decided to do the track in 2 days rather than the recommended 3-4. We meant to leave by 7 am, but of course made it onto the trail head closer to a quarter to ten. No worries. We were committed.

We had heard that the Routeburn Falls Hut was one of the nicest huts in NZ, we chose to walk a whopping 22 k's on day one to barely make it there by sundown. We lucked out with amazingly perfect sunny cool weather and spectacular views of the entire Lower Hollyford Valley. It was absolutely incredible and one of the highlights of my NZ experience. We began the track in Fiordland and the lush rainforest green that I live in, and walked to Mt. Aspiring Nation Park, encountering more woodsy vegetation and different colored mountains. When we reached Harris Saddle, the sun was about to set and we were the only ones on the top to view the colors and clarity of the height.

Needless to say, we were slightly exhausted upon arrival in the hut that night. We somehow managed to make pasta which we devoured instantaneously, but I remember little else before I stumbled into my bunk, buried in 18 layers of clothing.

Day two was an easy hike technically, but being sore and tired made it even harder. It was another beautiful day though, and very interesting to enter into a different national park and to notice all of the changes along the way.

Check it out:

http://www.doc.govt.nz/explore/002~tracks-and-walks/Great-Walks/Routeburn-Track/index.asp

So anyway, I spent the next two days enjoying civilization in Queenstown... eating and drinking and being merry.

Truly excellent days off. NZ is a beautiful country, in case I have neglected to mention that yet.

Spanish lessons are not going so well. Er... oops. Spending two months in Spanish speaking countries will truly be a wonderful challenge though, and I am committed to learn to communicate basic pleasantries with local people without making a complete ass of myself. In case I didn't mention it, I am going to Costa Rica, Peru, Bolivia and Ecuador with my very lovely friend Meg this June.

:-)

2006-03-20T00:28:00.000-05:00

Hola mi amigos!

I'm on 5 days off, all of which have been deliciously lazy and relaxing. I spent two nights in Manipouri, 15 minutes outside of Te Anau in the house of the co-owner Dave. He had a clean kitchen and shower, a DVD player where we watched 4.5 movies, and a beautiful view of Lake Manipouri. I read a book, I read the paper, I cooked and I listened to music. It was a lovely relief after a tough 9 days on while nursing an enormous couple of tonsils covered in a whitish/green mysterious gooey substance. (feeling much better now)

We then drove towards to relax further in the green grasses of the Peregrine vineyard for their annual Harvest Festival. I sampled three different central otago wines and ate olives and cheeses and quince paste on crackers.

Later, we lazed some more in our plush hotel room (one gets sick of hostels and shared showers after a while), getting takeaway Thai food and watching movies on the plasma TV.

Today, I've been reading and sleeping and reading and eating and accidentally watched 39-22 of E's "Most Awesome TV Moments".

Back to work tomorrow, but only 20 days left at my job. Gulp. Then world travel with some world class beautiful people. Hooray!

2006-03-07T00:42:00.000-05:00

It is blowey and raining and cold.
Milford has on average 3 meters of rain a year.
Wet feet are common.
Smelly feet are more common.

Though the upsides to caravan livin' are many, the downsides are no less uncomfortable. Imagine: You wake up at 3am warmly nestled in the tucked cocoon you have created for yourself to the wrenching in your gut that is a full bladder. (For some (whose initials may be KKE) this is an annoyingly frequent occurance). Most nights, you are fine to sneak outside and do your business quickly in the bushes. You are out and in, under a minute flat. Most nights. Tonight though it is not just raining, it is howling. The mountains are crying for a lost lover and the skies are lashing out against their cousin earth. If you try to pee in this your legs will be drenched and you will not want to think about in which liquid. The problem; the toilet is located over a gauntlet of caravan wires, parked campervans, large boulders and muddy grass. You assess the situation. As much (in life) as you wish for your bladder pain to dissappear, you know that it will not.The longer you wait, the more you delay the inevitable painful slap in the face that is the weather outside your covers. You take the plunge and tonight it is literally that, as you plunk into 5 inches of cold rainwater that your sandals (jandals, flippers,thongs, flip flops) do not protect you from. You stumble in the dark, because there are no lights in Milford after 11pm, and besides, you do not have your contacts in so cannot see regardless. Wet trees grab your hair as your body jolts awake. You are angry. You are wet. You wonder why you are living here.

So what do you do when you wake up the next day, grumpy and still a bit damp? You book a ticket to someplace warm. You book a trip to say, Costa Rica, Peru, Bolivia and Ecuador and dress yourself in the thought of warm sandy beaches and lazy afternoons.

2006-02-25T00:35:00.000-05:00

Orapuki

Say it, "Or-A-Puk-EE". Fun, isn't it?

It was. Prue, the head chef at the cafe generously lent her car and her home to me over my last days off from work. She bought this adorable, rustic little cottage a few months ago. After finally kicking out the former eclectic tenant she was able to check out the gem that is her purchase.

We arrived late afternoon, after stocking up on groceries, going overboard at the prospect of our own kitchen. We bought enough cheese, bread, pasta, olive oil and fruit to last us for at least two weeks.We had been given explicit instructions as to how to light the coal range and stove. After fumbling for (slightly less than) an hour, covered now in a lovely shade of soot, we had heat! Unfortunately, the taps were not offering water. We soon discovered that the giant concrete tank outside the house that was to collect rainwater had an alarmingly hollow sound as we threw pebbles in to determine the depth. It seems as though we were in a single unit drought.

A drive down the road and a quick conversation with the volunteer fire brigade, we had a fire truck parked outside our door and a hose filling the well. "These boys needed practice with the hoses anyway."

With flowering bushes and fresh mint growing outside the kitchen door, sheep baaing in our backyard and cats wandering through the yard, a fireplace and wine to keep us warm, music and books to keep us entertained and rainbows and hailstorms to keep us awe-struck; it was a perfect few days away.

We ventured down the southern scenic route to charming towns of Riverton (I bought a new hat and had a great meal) and bustling Invercargill, (we saw "Walk the Line") and played in beaches called Cozy Nook and Gemstone gathering driftwood to feed to our fireplace.

It was hard to come back! Today I left work early to hike Key Summit... a beautiful afternoon and giving of needed perspective. I am starting to feel the panic of my limited time here. I am not ready yet.

2006-02-16T00:52:00.000-05:00

OK OK, so I am getting the not so subtle "so you are not quite blogging as much as you used to" hints. I am a busy girl. And ultimately, I realize that the day to day patterns that become our lives as we are working, eating, sleeping are far less interesting than flying off cliffs or driving through mountains.

As I write this I am at work waiting until the cafe closes so I can count every bottle of coke/juice/water, every bag of chips, and every candy bar and Cookie Time. Very exciting.

Life is very good in Milford these days. I had a low few weeks when it rained constantly, but I am loving it here again. I love the isolation and how it has drawn all walks of people who share the same gypsy spirit. It is encouraging to be around 30 year olds who are wandering, working here and there and traveling constantly. It is nice to be around people who have a passion for life and take work less seriously than living.That being said, I love my job and am learning alot about the operation and managment of a cafe.

I am beginning to plan my trip to Australia, or rather, Tara is planning down to the second the entire first week and a half. We are going to the a ballet/indigenous dance performance in the Sydney Opera House our first day there! And the best news is that Matt has not yet backed out of the trip so I have a fabulous few weeks with him to play up the east coast of Oz.

Valentine's Day came with a bouquet of roses delivered to me all the way from a Florist in Invercargill, 3 hours away. I am completely dumbstruck as to who they could be from. They included a card that said "Be My Kiwi". The roses were beautiful and successfully changed the color of my cheeks to a similar shade of red. If any of you blog readers sent them to me, a very grateful thank you! They are lovely, and it is very strange to have a secret admirer, but fun as well.

Days off again in 3 more days. We are hoping to drive down the Southern Scenic route, maybe staying a friend's house and not spending a lot of money. I hope for sunshine and time with a few books.

Also- If anyone is interested in visiting:

http://airfare.travelzoo.com/international-airfare/227427

2006-02-01T04:28:00.000-05:00

Vantastic

So who wouldn't jump on the opportunity to drive a van from Te Anau to Christchurch free of charge? No bother that the last drivers accidentally drove it off the Milford Road, breaking a back window and scraping off the driver's door handle and mirror. A small thing that there was no registration or warrant. Easy that the contact asked very few questions and provided very few answers. I'll trust any Kiwi who says that a van is "fit to drive".

And she was. Lovingly dubbed "Lady Lucy", our little van drove us from Milford to Queenstown. We camped on the roadside, asleep in minutes after a long day's work and drive. After a perfect soy latte at my favorite cafe in QTN and an hour too long in "The Warehouse"( (NZ's solution to Walmart) looking for a CD player to take on the road we were on our way through to Wanaka for lunch in sunny fabulousness. Wanaka has become perhaps my favorite town in NZ... holding all of the modern amenities, cafes, art galleries and lakeside activities as Queenstown, without the soulless, tourist driven commercialism. If I come back to NZ it will be to live in Wanaka.

From there we drove on the West Coast Highway, stopping at a deserted mountain lake to swim, and browsing in the small 100-200 person towns along the route for fresh fruit or ice cream. We stayed in Franz Josef that night at a lovely holiday park and enjoyed a bottle of wine and dinner of cheese and crackers, fresh avocados and tomatoes. Yum.

The next day we drove the SPECTACULAR coastal road through Greymouth to Punakaike, home of the pancake rocks. Though the rocks themselves are amazing and impressive, the entire road is exquisite. There are sheer 300 meter cliffs into crashing surf, the road weaving in and out of lush rainforest and sandy dirt roads. It felt good to see the ocean and sleep with waves crashing nearby. We all return to the sea. It is my home wherever I travel.

The next day we drove across the country via the Lewis Pass, where little Lady Lucy had a rough time, over heating frequently and refusing to start on a few occasions. But we made it safely to Christchurch and got a buzz from the very citiness.... sirens and people and cars and beeping and Traffic! A bit overwhelming at first, I quickly slipped into the enjoyment of it all. It is good to be around people doing their daily thing... bustling to work and catching up with their friends. And none of them knew who I was or cared. I miss anonymity at times. It was good to refuel.

We flew back to Queenstown after two nights in Christchurch and a horrible plane ride which made me wish I was dead (puking and cramping and horrible) but made it into a sunny day and onto an early bus back to Milford. And after an 11 hour day of work I am still feeling great.

New Zealand is the fairy tale land that you imagine as a child, or read about in books, but never really thought existed. It is right here, green and cliffed and water dense and glorious.

2006-01-29T22:19:00.000-05:00

So it has been a while, sorry friends...

But life is sunny and magnificent right now. I have just had four fabulous days of adventure and scenery driving up NZ's South Island's West Coast. It has been so dazzling and wonderful, and has offered some much needed time away from work/drizzle/sandflies.

I'm in Christchurch now and must go back out into the sunshiney pleasantness that is city in summer (ya know, all ice creamy and gooey streets and barefooted children and too short skirts)

I promise to provide a riveting and detailed account of my travels upon my return to home base.

Happy is the traveler.

2006-01-14T15:55:00.000-05:00

It was 2:31 on my cell phone clock when I woke up to the sound of a train barreling down on my little orange and white caravan, shaking her, senselessly unaware of her sleepy inhabitant. Instead of counting the seconds between lightening and deafening thunder clap as I am used to, I would brace for the rock and twist of my van as I heard the wind storm in on me. The rain came in bursts, heavy and pelting followed by a distrustful soothing patter. By 2:41 I was out of bed peering into the trees that were whipping my rooftop and contemplating running next door to Tara's van and the safety of two people huddling in the storm. At 2:42 I was back in my bed... this time with socks on in case of flooding, thinking better of waking my lovely sleeping neighbor. By 2:44 I was up again, shaken violently and reconsidering Tara's sleep. At 2:50, after another brief attempt at going back to my bed I was wading in 2 inches of water outside of my door with pillow in hand and barging into Tara's van and her sleepless eyes. "I was wondering how long it would take for you to come over."

Her van was worse, much larger and getting hit directly in the middle with the massive gusts, we decided to go back to mine, a little less shaky. After running into the lodge and back out in the hail, we were both drenched and shivering. There was little chance of sleep and lots of comments of "oh shit!".

Two days ago my boss Adam was very closely watching the river behind my van. A few more hours of rain and we would have had to evacuate. Fiorldland has some pretty amazing weather. This morning it is partly sunny and offers no evidence of the wind and rain pelting of last night. The puddle that was inches deep outside my door is now fairly dry mud. I wonder if it was all a dream, but the dark circles under everyone's eyes tell me it was not.

I am already thinking about how much I will miss this place when I leave. That being said, my tickets are booked for Australia. I will fly with Tara to Melbourne on April 25, then to Sydney on the 29th where I will hang out for a week or so until my 25th. After that, travel up the east coast until Matt is forced to fly home.

My boss lent me his South America guide book so I have been reading up on Ecuador/Peru/Bolivia... what a change it will be from NZ. It is exciting to read about museums and churches and thing of cultural significance. I picture a lot of color but maybe just hope for more color as I am surrounded now by all shades green.

I am on days off now, and I don't have much of a plan but to see the horizon. Thanks for all of the emails of late. I am loving hearing news of home.

There is a Simpson's marathon on right now. Not a bad way to start my days off!

2006-01-04T21:05:00.000-05:00

Days off have been uneventful. I am reading "My Sister's Keeper". It has been raining and snowing down to 1000 meters, meaning I wake up to freshly powdered mountain tops. It is the kind of weather for sleeping and reading and cuddling in front of a movie.
We watched Amelie. The beautiful actress sometimes reminds me of my sister. I made chili and corn bread today. The chili is ridiculously spicy and so ruined. Apparently I used a bit too much of the extra hot chilli powder. Oops.I tried to remedy the situation with cinnamon and water.
It is time for a nap.

2006-01-01T02:06:00.000-05:00

Embracing 2006

It has been years since I have celebrated the countdown in true New Year fashion. New Year's Eve for most is a let down, built up to something that inevitably ends in boredom or sloppiness. Are you really supposed to wait for that ball to drop before you can crawl under the quilt you have been dreaming about all day?

Last year I spent the evening alone in my Somerville apartment drinking wine and feeling very sorry for myself over a boy and my lack of social life. The year before it was spent in a fight with a boy who didn't want to come to my best friend's house. The year before that... not sure, but going with the trends it probably involved some lonesome or angry feelings about,around or near, a boy.
Geesh. Get a grip,girl.

I am very happy to say that this year though, I had an lovely evening without the uncomfortable and annoying interruptions of boy-dom and relationships. I drank champagne and ate cheese and olives and strawberries in Tara's ridiculously large new caravan. (It has a separate bedroom people!) and danced to 80's music "phoenix landing" style. How wonderful to be free of the 'but aren't we supposed to be together and isn't it supposed to be special' ness of the varying shades of togetherness.

Ok, so this wasn't intended to be a blog about the exquisite liberation that is singledom....

So, updates:

Apparently, my lovely, witty, dashingly handsome and charming friend Matthew Young has received the gift of travel, and has (obviously) chosen the equally lovely young Karen Esterly to travel with. Dates are yet to be confirmed, however, Australia best prepare herself for this traveling duo of fun. Matt and I conquered a piece of Central America together, and I have no doubt we can do even better in the mystical land of Oz. Hurrah!

I read The Thorn Birds and loved loved loved it. You should read it and we shall discuss the intricacies of the various gender roles etc.

I got a NEW CAMERA!!!!!!!!!!! Yes I will try my very BEST to post pictures as soon as possible. My parents spoil me rotten but I am So HAPPY to actually be able to document my travels and life here in New Zealand!

I moved into a new caravan! Indeed, supervisor perks allowed me to upgrade to a cozier space with double bed and warmer interior.

I am going to SOUTH AMERICA! With the love of my life, Miss Meaghan O'Halloran. Dates are a bit up in the air as of yet, but we are committed to it and I am committed to working a bit harder than I have been on my espagnol. Si. Gracias.

That is about all I have... I am pretty positive that 2006 will surpass 2005, which was a pretty damn good year. I have a goal to make each year better than the last. It is a good plan for those of you in need of some New year's resolutions.

Good luck to all of you nursing January first hangovers. Much love across the seas.

2005-12-24T13:09:00.000-05:00

On the Twelfth Day of Christmas...

Good morning and Merry Christmas! (or for those of you behind the times, Merry Christmas Eve)I hope you all feel the very warm wishes I am sending overseas. It is raining, pouring really this Christmas morn'... no snow covered roads or icicles or sleigh bells ringing, but I think Santa did drop by.

Christmas in Milford, and New Zealand in general has been an interesting experience. Kiwi's may do adrenaline big and nature big, but Christmas is more of an afterthought. Their wimpy attempts to create commercial havoc fail miserably in comparison to my US experiences. The Fiordland times published carols in their paper, begging people to join a Te Anau celebration. Unfortunatly they were celebrating the birth of some other person, the first carol commemorating "the first Noelle."

Surprisingly though, I have been filled with the good cheer of the year, plowing through the grinchfulness of some coworkers to enthusiastically welcome this day. I've spent hours making cards, warapping presents and decorating my twiggy tree. Yesterday I spent the morning creating a masterful "Gingerbread Caravan" from scratch for my secret santa. Last night I boogied to the cover tunes of local band "Band It" (get it?) and recieved hugs from drunk strangers for the merry day ahead. Tara and I opened presents when we got home... a magnificent stocking full of useful things, a "watch him grow!" boyfriend who I will soon be putting in water, some bubbles and safety scissors (so i don't steal from the lodge) and a Bonds (made in australia) tshirt. And I still have more to open! Yikes!

And on the 10th day of christmas, New Zealand gave to me
A 60 foot freefall into a raviiiiine....

Indeed, I took the plunge, twice on the worlds highest rope swing... the rush of my life, even surpassing jumping from a plane! And I think I scored high on the fright factor for each jump (I am not a wimp!)Because we got the first jump free we also had to relinquish ourselves to the fancy of the Canyon Swing men. They chose for my first jump the "Pin Drop", a basic pencil dive into a 110 m canyon. For my second they surprised me with the "bin laden", where I was covered with a trash bin on my walk to the edge and pushed hurtling backwards through the air without sight of the fast approaching ground or cords that kept me strapped to life. It was INCREDIBLE.

Check it out: http://www.canyonswing.co.nz/

It was a fun few days in Queenstown, to say the least. Good food and shopping and I dare say I even have this driving on the left thing down. It still doesn't feel entirely correct, but neither does driving on the right hand side anymore!

In other very tragic news, in attempting to upload Lodge music to my ipod last night I somehow managed to erase everything on my ipod. To some this is not a big thing, but to me this is my life. I hate silence and am not quite sure how to deal. NZ has not heard of Phish or Grateful Dead, they don't love blues and don't have the same folk artists who are my favorites. I am gutted... trying not to think about it but welling up with tears everytime I do. It has playlists, "KarensMixLoveMeg" and "VermontMix" which help me through lonely periods. It has memories. It was the only thing I really cared about losing.

Technology does not agree with me in New Zealand. I have no camera and no ipod. I am a brat, aware that there are people in the world who would be stunned and disgusted that I would shed tears over such a thing. But these are toys that I have grown to love and depend on! And yes, I see the lesson here.

I am in New Zealand though, in one of the most beautiful places I will ever see. I am healthy and very happy here... and will continue on now with my very Merry Christmas Day.

Much love to all of you at home.I wish I could be with my family today... so enjoy your mothers and fathers and brothers and sisters and friends and lovers and traditions and peace.

2005-12-19T01:16:00.000-05:00

Christmas cookies are good in warm weather and in the southern hemisphere... for all of you who were wondering.

2005-12-16T02:14:00.000-05:00

Oh Christmas Tree...

I am basking, at last, in Christmas cheer. Today I decorated the cafe in an overabundance of tinsel and lights. I recieved a package yesterday from my wonderful parents with too many cookies and a stocking and gifts. I threw fake plastic snow around my caravan carelessly, continued to decorate the twig that is my christmas tree, and recieved a surfing santa, a skiing santa, and a cheesy snowman candle from Tara- imported directly from Australia for my homesick heart.:-)

Thanks for the Christmas wishes from everyone. They are needed for me right now. I've passed the three month mark here... and am looking forward to the next several months ahead.

2005-12-06T04:15:00.000-05:00

Hello all,

Ok, so they are not MY photo's... but a good majority of these are taken in my home places.

Enjoy!

http://fotoalbum.web.de/gast/tylerwinyard/14_Neuseeland

:-)

2005-12-05T01:42:00.000-05:00

http://postsecret.blogspot.com/

(borrowed from my sister. shh. don't tell her.)

2005-12-05T01:10:00.000-05:00

On Being American.

There are few who would call me patriotic. I am one of the first to criticize and grumble about our current government and President. I have never considered myself a proud American and laugh at the flags recently plastered on cars. But being an American abroad has brought out a different side of me.

As a child, it is ok to grumble about your sister or mother. As a husband it is ok to complain about your wife from time to time. It is ok to notice the faults in your friends.Parent's often are much harder on their own children. The commonality is an obvious love. A love based on comfort and connection. On history and understanding.

This has become my relationship with America. This area of the world is not uber-friendly towards Americans. Kiwi's love Canadians and they see little difference with the country whose queen they still print on their bills. Australia is like a big brother across the Tasman sea. But you mention you are American, and faces drop. Smiles turn to frowns and you can actually see the brains twitching and a joke forming across the brow and lips.

Fair enough. The majority of the world has good reason to see America as the ignorant bully that she often is. But I am becoming sensitive. It is ok for me to make fun of my people, but that is because they are my people. I love their quirks, their sometimes obnoxious loud laughter and good humored enthusiasm. Sure we have our share of rude tourists, but no more than kiwi's or germans or italians. I work in the most multicultural place I ever have. Each day I talk to people from every continent and race. The common denominator is that we are the same. We like to eat and laugh. We don't like to be ripped off. We get grumpy if it is raining but we drink more hot chocolate when it is. We love our families. We think Milford Sound is beautiful.

When people tell me I am not like most Americans, I am still not sure how to take it. But I know this; that I am proud of my family and friends at home. I am amazed by their capacity to love and think and learn about the world. That is the version of America that I know and love. Does this make me patriotic?

2005-11-30T16:58:00.000-05:00

Days off

I've realized the necessity of seeing the horizon at least once every few weeks. I do manage to spend a lot of money every time I have days off. The American consumer in me is just itching to get rid of the colorful bills in my pocket or bank account. In just a few hours in TeAnau (a basic overpriced town)I managed to spend over a hundred dollars on shoes. It is justifiable though. As the cafe supervisor now I may as well abide by the dress code and black shoe policy.

Tara and I were dropped off at Gunn's camp on Tuesday night after our town excursion. Gunn's is located 10 Ks down a dirt road in the midst of a mountain valley. Bill and Helen operate the site, a combination of different size cabins each with woodstoves, campsites and campervan parking. This is quaint New Zealand defined. We drank wine and attempted chess in the candlelit cabin with the warmth of a woodstove to keep feeling in our toes. The next morning we drank tea and sat on the swings in the sunshine for hours while a strong breeze kept the sandflies at bay. We didn't have a car, so walked the 10Ks back to the road hoping for a friendly driver to pick us up. After only half an hour our kayaker friend Sam stopped to bring us home. My skin and brain was happy to have a huge dose of sunshine

2005-11-24T14:25:00.000-05:00

Definition of a "Real Job"

I left Boston for many reasons, the main being that I had grown to despise my job. I loved the people. Hated not being able to make ends meet with the salary. Loved the salad bar and hour and a half lunches. Hated sales updates and fake clapping. Hated being told that we were "making a difference". Hated the numbers. Hated the conversions. Hated the end of every month. Loved having my two best freinds around the corner from me and emails telling me to meet them in the bathroom in three minutes.

To me, the job I left behind was a "real job". That ugly phrase I discovered in high school and saw looming ominously ahead of me, ugly and boring and dark. And now I am in New Zealand, working in a cafe, saving more money than I ever have, and as of Monday have been promoted to Supervisor.

Needless to say I am working longer hours and am quite challeneged by the job ahead of me, but I like it. It is not a "real job".

Off to work my friends... happy thanksgiving today! I am looking forward to a phone call from the relitives at meal time. Gobble.Gobble.

2005-11-20T14:57:00.000-05:00

Culture, Shock!

I know I know, it has been quite some time since my last blog. Truth be told I am busy, and I am becoming increasingly annoyed by the internet option here. Apologies to all.

I am alive though. And well. A good combination of ways to be. I have been working hard, longer days and more of them (had 9 days on and three off rather than the 8 and four.) Our buffet service went in at the cafe and has surprisingly gone very well. When you think buffet you may be one of the many who thinks lunchroom cafeteria, and yes it is somewhat similar. But the food is goodand the service is so much easier. Hurrah! The tourists are coming in droves these days. It is somewhat chaotic but fun in the midst of the bugsprayed, overdressed swarms.

I was more than happy to take off from Milford during my days off. Not to say I am growing tired of the place, but a nice city diversion was necessary. Tara and I borrowed our friend's 1991 Ford Laser and drove the 5 hours to Dunedin. We treated ourselves to good food and drinks, christmas shopping and two (yes two!) movies. The Constant Gardener, beautifully shot and amazing landscapes and music... predictable ending but good acting overall if all a bit depressing and slow. The Common Thread, a french film about a girl who becomes pregnant and must quit her job at the supermarket to avoid the questions and is then hired by a seamstress to work on the most exquisite embroidery work and the find their common bond etc. etc. Lovely film with nice fabrics.

Yes, so I am craving a bit of culture. I don't exactly feel like a city girl in the country. I can fit in well here in our campground surroundings and do enjoy the serenity and oppressive granduer of the mountains surounding me, but I also think once you go city it is hard to go back. I met a woman from Jamaica Plain yesterday and I questioned her incessantly, lusting after Boston news, shared restaurants, the Red Sox.... talk of the Globe or Big Dig. I find I am missing the bustle and grime a bit. I am missing 24 hours and most of all I am missing anonymity. As a somewhat loner and happy observer of the world and people, I am finding it difficult to get that stimulation. In a community of 200 "locals" even if you are not known, you are known of. You cannot observe quietly the daily lives, and observing tourists is predictable and dull.

I must wrap this up, but wish you all the most happy thanksgiving! I will be thinking of my lovely ones on the other side of the earth. My wonderful mother sent me a wonderful package of thanksgiving and holiday reminders and so I will hold a small ritual of celebration in thanks for all of you and of my own good fortune. Eat well my friends!

2005-11-06T16:53:00.000-05:00

The road to Oz...

In the loop: I am tentatively planning to head to Australia for perhaps a month or less. (while I am in the hemisphere... would be silly not to.) My main reason is the 17th annual Byron bay Blues and Roots festival. Last year's line up included big names like Jack Johnson, GLove, DMB, Soloman Burke, John Butler Trio etc as well as loads of others I haven't heard of.

Check it out.
http://www.bluesfest.com.au/

Cool as.

2005-11-06T16:10:00.000-05:00

On Holiday...

My biggest source of anxiety in coming to Milford was the fear of getting bored. As many of you may know, I grow tired of places quickly. I am restless. A wanderer. I have the annoying habit of growing resentful of a place if I do not have constant stimulation. Milford has kept me busier though than Cambridge or university. Without the hum of television and the stresses of daily life, I still find more than enough to do to fill the hours.

I started my off days heading to Queenstown. Sweet Becca, my english friend, turned 24. We celebrated with a huge curry meal and several drinks at some swanky, some sweaty bars in town. On my second visit to Queenstown my impression has been fine tuned. It is a lovely city placed in a lovely setting but to me has little character and no soul. Though filled with chic boutiques, delicious ethnic restuarants and bungy friendly attractive young people, the town seems lost on itself, as any place devoted only to the tourist surely becomes. Regardless, city soul was not our mission, and we had a great time dancing and being silly.

On sunny saturday morning after a great bagel and avacado I managed to reach via the miracle of cellular signals my dearest Meg... finishing her work week and ready to go home. I had a smile plastered to my face for the remainder of the day after talking to her and my dear Matthew, Costa Rican partner ir crime. I do occasionally miss the stench of Cambridge, the history of the streets, the buzz of many languages and the ghosts of the people who have lived and worked, histories and lives layered on top of eachother creating a massive energy of life. I miss the homeless people that you begin to recognize.The barking man. The beer. (oh what I would pay for a number 9!)The middle eastern food and the colors, so many beautiful colors, of the people. Because I am so highly energized and stimulated here I have decided to work on a time transporting device that would enable me to move through timespace to get a hug from my people at home and then quickly return. I will keep you updated on my progress.

There is a fly the size of my thumbnail buzzing around my head. Highly irritating.

I finished the new Zadie Smith book, On Beauty. A lovely read, following the complicated intertwining lives of two families... monitoring their faults and character effortlessly... and taking place in a Boston suberb (named a fictional Wellington but I think maybe was Milton or Roslindale perhaps?). I now have that scary burp of anxiety that is not having another book lined up.

In the afternoon I went kayaking to the end of the Milford track, a place called Sandfly point and not because of the lack of sandflies. There we walked the last 3 miles of the track on a easy well maintained trail to a beautiful mountain waterfall. It was awesome to see the fiord cliffs from the point of view of a kayak... truly making you feel your small size.

For the evening we shuttled down the road to a place called "Little Tahiti", an open field, where there was a massive bonfire and party underway. Yesterday was the the 30th anniversary of the birth of beautiful Sina, a chef here and glowing spirit. It was a party complete with generator powered speakers and colored disco ball, several gallons of kerosene to light the firesticks and pois and enough dry wood to keep a circle of over 30 people warm.

2005-11-01T14:04:00.000-05:00

Embracing the Sandfly...

Is not quite as easy as I thought it would be. After reading Marlow Morgan's book Mutant Message Down Under this summer, learning about the aboriginal practice of tolerance, acceptance and even gratefulness for all creatures beautiful and obnoxious, I had set upon this journey with a goal of the same. As an earth loving vegetarian I began my stay here with the practice of live and let live. With more vitamin B in my body than the normal carnivore, sandflies did not seem to stick to me like others. I didn't swat them, and so believed that they, in turn, would recognize my love for them and their recent ancestors, and thus spare me from their irritating poison. After over a month here, and covered in the scabs of a ten year old in summer, I have lost most of my desire to spare the little devils.

Anyway, hello! It has been a busy week, so sorry for the time between posting. I finished my days off last week with a quick trip to Dunedin, basically directly opposite of Milford on the east coast. After a sleepy 5.5 hour drive (beautiful sunset, lots of sheep) we arrived at On Top Backpackers (really swanky and nice) again staying for free. (yay!) Tara and Rich unfortunately were in the city on business, taking a responsible selling of alcohol course required in NZ. I on the other hand had a full 12 hours to explore this quaint college town. Lovely city, filled with clean streets, beautiful young people, cafes, art galleries and second hand stores. (Op Shops). I finished my book drinking latte's in the sunshine. I enjoyed my first bagel since being in NZ, chatted amicably with store owners and basically had a relaxing sunny day.

Work is picking up here. There are more and more busses every day, and more and more slightly frazzled, slightly perplexed tourists often sea sick and hungry, but mostly nice unless they have run out of petrol. Milford had two gas pumps. Only the Diesel works.

We had a lovely staff party on Sunday night, enjoying a sunset cruise into the Tasman, hoping to spot the humpback mom and baby found earlier in the day. No such luck, but witnessed an incredible sunset, this time illuminating a dense cloud cover to create magenta and gold streaks accross the sky. The party continued in the pub and ended with a fall into a great muddy hole in the attempt to get a better look at the glowworms on the embankment. Ha.

I am heading back to Queenstown to celebrate lovely Becca's 24th birthday on Friday! Looking forward to another quick bite of civilization and the opportunity to spend my hard earned money. In other news, I was promoted to the senior cafe position and so have the chance to get my hands a bit dirtier in the running of the operation. Good experience for me, I think, as my ultimate "some day" plan to own my own cafe slowly comes into focus.

Estoy aprendando espagnol. (I think that means "I am learning Spanish") And have sort of committed to an every other day study plan. I will be fluent in 2.5 months, according to my "learn Spanish in three months" book.

That is all for now. Stay in touch. Send me home addresses because I have loads of postcards but no addresses to send them to.

Cheers!

2005-10-24T14:48:00.000-05:00

Good morning.

The mountain I wake up to every morning can be sheepish. Today she went into hiding a mere 20 minutes after I opened my doors to her. She was misty-clad in a silvery shawl of clouds. I walked upstream to do some yoga on the riverbed, turned around and she had disappeared completely.

I am thoughrily enjoying my days off. Yesterday I hiked to the top of Bowen Falls with 5 others. The path is steep and lined with ropes and ladders. It leads you to a large black pipe which funnels our water for drinking and power. You balance on that for a while until coming to a clearing midway between the top of a second ridge and the bottom where the water flushes into the fiord. It was a beautiful sun soaked day. We stayed at the top for maybe two hours bathing in warm delicious and sleepy sun rays.

Not sure what I am up to today. A few people are doing the same hike today, though going further, bushwhacking to what I hear is a even more scenic spot. I can use some Karen time though, so might bike in the opposite direction to the Chasm, about 7k's from here to lovely hanging bridges and waterfalls.

Here are some websites, one for the department of conservation with information on fiordland and some of the hikes, great and small around me, as well as Milford Road and wildlife here. The other is a webpage for Benny and Henning, two Germans wwoofing their way around the world and all around nice guys.

http://www.doc.govt.nz/Explore/002~Tracks-and-Walks/By-Region/013~Southland/Explore-Fiordland/Walks-from-the-Milford-Road/index.asp

http://wegetaround.de

2005-10-22T22:05:00.000-05:00

Penguins, Dolphins and Seals oh my!

I just got back from a morning-long snorkeling experience! I have never been snorkeling before and now feel as though I must learn to dive. I must! I will! Tara and I went along the Sea Dragon, a small motor boat, with Dave and Jaime of Tawaki Dive. We buzzed into the fiord, stopping at two separate dive spots. The other 4 aboard were repeat divers, so got to go down to 18 meters in the less-than-warm fiord water. Tara and I remained buoyantly on top, spying on sea urchins as big as my head, fish of varying sizes and colors, 11 legged giant star fish and several sea cucumbers as large as my arm. We saw over 15 dolphins as we were loading the boat in, and later a few more played by our boat. We got to play near waterfalls, spotted my FIRST out of water penguins (the tawaki, or fiordland crested penguin, one of the rarest species in the world) and several seals sunbathing.

Our second time in we got to wear weight belts so could duck dive a few feet deeper.
Life is good.

2005-10-21T22:03:00.000-05:00

That's Cold As, eh?

Milford seems to be enjoying a drought of peculiar magnitude. It has been 8 days now without rain of any substantial amount. Lucky us! These lovely sunny days lead to stunning sunsets, normally setting far from our view, we witness the magnificent after glow of pink-red clouds and reflected fuschia mountain tops.

Yesterday however, I watched the sun setting over the Tasman Sea. Immediately after work Jackie and I ran to the ferry terminal to board the one of Mitre Peak's boats, taking lodge and cafe staff out for a sunset cruise with free beer and wine... just because. (ok, a little bribery never hurt anyone though... we are the ones sending customers their way...)Earlier in the day I decided not to go... work would not quite be finished and I was a bit tired and hungry and BLAH BLAH. I have learned my lesson. The cruise was AMAZING. There were only 15 of us on board, cruising amidst 600 meter high cliffs towards the sleepy orange glow of an open sea. We saw the setting sun reflecting off a 125 meter waterfall, spraying us in several wet rainbows. We got off on the edge of the sea to climb up to a lighthouse where "only 20 of the 5 million people who have passed through here since it was made have been to. " I saw penguins swimming, seals basking and a red deer bounding along the cliffs. The highlight was being the first to jump off the boat into the cold of the sea. I am one tough New Englander I think, because the shock of the temperature was actually not too shocking. Picture 15 of your coworkers stripping down to what was just barely appropriate to scream into the air from the top level of a cruise ship into the a fiord. Not a bad way to end a day. Afterwards we watched the sun slip beneath the fiery water, magnificent and colorful, calm and perfect.

I am on my days off now and plan to enjoy them completely... reading and tramping and camping and drawing and practicing my espagnol. My senses are awake here. Did I mention I am happy?

2005-10-19T14:26:00.000-05:00

"You're Legend."

Hello, all. Sorry for the long time between blogging. Not to fret, all is well!

The week has been fantastic. I finished off my days off with a trip to Queenstown with Tara and Becca. I hadn't realized the extent to which I missed a good old fashioned ladies night out on the town. Before coming here I had the privelege of having wonderful, beautiful and hilarious women at my side from the early morning to late at night. The luxury that is having brilliant roommates, ones that will jump under the covers with you in the middle of a thunderstorm and bring you a coffee when you are rushed to work... these are beautiful things.

I have found some lovely ladies here, though, and am excited about the friendships forming and yet to form.

Becca and I drove into Queenstown; a beautiful four hour drive through jagged mountains, sandy mountains, grassy rolling mountains, large green fields, large white fields, cows, sheep, a few more sheep and a home or farm here and there.(Tara, that little sneaky bugger, managed a flight) Queenstown balances friendly-like on the edge of an enormous blue lake. Though I haven't been to Vail or Breckenridge, I would imagine them to be quite similar to Queenstown. There were loads of pretty young people; euro-ski trendy and sipping cappuccino's with attractive dogs and happy animated expressions. We stayed free in the Bumble's Backpackers (oh, the benifits of being affiliated with the Milford Lodge!)and spent lots of money on other things (Mexican, beer, FURGburger..). It felt good to be a consumer for a day. I now have a new wallet (yay!), some housewares for my cozy home-van, and over one hundred dollars in books.(Tengo los libros. I was very book starved... reading The Time Traveler's Wife, quite interesting... bought the new Zadie Smith book too, and and Hugo's "Learn Spanish in 3 months" book.As well as drawing book, colored pencils and pastels!)

Back to work here and that has been bueno as well. I feel clear headed and happy and grateful everyday. I get to walk a magnificent road to work every morning and home again at night, experiencing the various colors of the day at every hour, Milford is strange and dramatic and timeless. I feel busy, always busy... with good friends forming, and waterfalls to play in. We share bonfires and drink wine by candlelight. Last night I sat outside the large windows of the lodge admiring a group of 10 middle aged Israelis. The were lingering over a shared dinner and several bottles of wine, joyously, loudly, obliviously singing songs they all knew, clapping and laughing and being entirely here. It was beautiful.

I realize this sounds sappy, maybe overly enthusiastic or embellished but it is not. I am happy here. The layers of everyday life that we strap on to ourselves unknowingly; cell phones, car payments, job stresses, daily news... all these things are stripped away. Life is simple and pleasures are everywhere, looking up, looking right and left... at a full moon or the deep blue of night. It is a sort of relief feeling I have here, like after you sigh out a deep deep breath.

My dear friend Ben left this morning to return to France. Bon Voyage, Benjamin! Mi Manchi. (this is some weird combo of french-italianish mumbo jumbo.)

2005-10-11T16:14:00.000-05:00

There was a summer when I was maybe ten years old when Ashley, Karen and I spent many an afternoon walking in the knee-to-thigh deep mud of the former creek behind our house. Yesterday's trek was reminiscent of those lazy summer days.

The Tuteko Valley hike is 2 km from milford lodge, and about 6 hours round trip from start to finish. It was a gorgoues sunny day, and being my first day off I was energized at 7 am to enjoy it. I have learned a new definition of lush while being here. The forest is literally dripping with water, growth and decay. The hike itself is fairly easy in that it is not very steep but it is very wet. Very muddy. Quite an experience to squish through a rainforest on a sunny afternoon with only the sounds of birds and swishing trees to keep you company. My new boots now look like seasoned travllers after sinking nearly knee deep in what appeared to be solid mud a few times. Laughing in the forest by myself, at myself, this is cool.

The trail is mostly mixture of forest, moss gardens, small streams and swampy areas, but opens at the end to the Tuteko River; with zillions of smooth stones drawing a line through the mountain valley. I stayed for about an hour, eating my lunch and lounging in the sun like a happy baby seal.

2005-10-09T14:01:00.000-05:00

Nudity, flying and fire sticks.

Kiwi's are continuing to surprise me with their hospitality, humor, friendly nature, and most recently, drinking habits. Saturday evening, ladies evening at the pub, not only drew Milford's finest young women dressed to impress (does wearing earrings negate the fact that my "dressy" shoes are my keen's?) but also happened to fall on National Nude Day. Thus, several of Milford's finest (ahem) young men joined us at the pub completely nude. Now, in some places this would seem offensive, inappropriate, or just plain in bad taste, but here their forage into public nakedness was greeted with cheers, laughter and a few more rounds of drinks. I think I will forever remember the round white bums of certain boat crew members. Cheers to that, I suppose.

Yesterday may have been my most favorite Milford day yet. Though slightly sleep deprived due to a late night Saturday, I woke up cheerful to sunny skies. Is there anything better to do on a beautiful clear day than go for another cruise down the fiord? Yes, and that is to go for a scenic flight through the fiord and mountains. There are several perks to being a "local" as I am after just over a week. When Nathan, a boistorious jolly pilot offered a free seat on his next take off I was not one to refuse. I took off my apron and followed him to the airstrip. With four others we quickly took off the short runway and flew along the incredibly high cliffs, over the mountains to stunning waterfalls, mountain lakes and jagged snow covered peaks. There were times when our left wing seemed only inches away from the cliff faces. We flew south, then west to the Tasman and looped back into the fiord. The beauty here is truly indescribable and astounding.

Shaking and jolted awake, I returned to work to finish closing for the day. How many people can say that they have the ability to leave work in the middle of the day to go for a quick flight over scenic paradise? Back at the lodge I suggested a campfire on the sand up the river. Some were interested but not many were motivated, so I took it upon myself to get it going. I have some skills, people, truly. By 9 my fire was roaring and I had helpers gathering wood. By 10 all our staff were around. The night was clear and the stars were glittering. A few talented women brought their fire poi (fire balls ont the end of strings that you dance with) and made beautiful fire art to the sound of beating hand drums. Our talented 18 year old australian impressed us with his fire stick throwing abilities as well. Fires seem to create a certain ambiance; reflective, quiet and intimate. Needless to say, and great end to a great day.

This morning I woke up at seven to the lovely singing of some sort of bird. It is my last day of work before four days off. Loads to do in these four days! Kayaking, hiking, a trip to town, another cruise?

I'll keep you posted!

2005-10-06T03:40:00.000-05:00

Snow and cookies.

Last night was the most clear beautiful cold night I have had in a while. There are zillions of stars here... all new to me. I am finding it quite fun to find my own constallations without knowledge of other's ideas. Last night I very clearly identified a a child fishing on a long arcing line. There is one extremly bright light right near Mitre Peak... it must be a planet. Venus perhaps?

The night also brought snow... not sticking, but definitely flaking. By 6 it was sunny again. The weather here is crazy.

I've discovered packaged cookies called Cookie Time. Yum. I baked oatmeal-choco-raisin cookies tonight for fellow staffmates. (trying to earn their friendship through food goodness, of course.)

Nighty night!

2005-10-05T01:07:00.000-05:00

Sweet As, Bro!

I moved into my new home! Welcome to a lovely, febreeze smelling, 70's style orange trimmed CAMPERVAN! OK, so it is not in pristine condition, but it has style to spare. Check out my vintage flowered curtains, fake formica countertops, artificial wood paneling and sexy orange stripes. She even has a river side view... door opening towards water and mountains. Not too shabby. (a little bit shabby though)

Regardless it is nice to have my own space. Any traveler will tell you reprieve from living from a backpack is gladly accepted, even in the fomr of a room on wheels.

Life in Milford is peaceful these days. I've been going into work at 10am and getting home around 6:30 after our chefs cook dinner for all of the staff. It is nice to all sit down together for a meal and form some semblance of family.

Evenings are filled chatting, drinking wine and occasionally watching a movie. There is not much to do after lights are out at 11, so I am getting plenty of sleep.

My campervan also has an extra bed for visitors. Any takers? It would be a shame to pass this up folks!

I know pictures will be helpful, but it will take me a while to get those uploaded. Bear with me folks. Oh, and I need books! If anyone is feeling generous please let me know and I will give you my address. :-)

2005-10-01T19:43:00.000-05:00

"Two cupsochino please."

Today was day 4(ish) of my cafe working life, and I got to leave early to celebrate the sunshine a bit. The Blue Duck Cafe is not the sort of place I would like to one day own, but my coworkers are quirky and the environment cannot be beat. The cafe itself is in the difficult position of creating good food really fast. Most customers are off of buses and need a quick bite of nourishment before departing for their crusie, therefore we have waves of hungry anxious people who want their coffee 5 minutes ago. New Zealand doesn't do filter coffee either, so all have to be whizzed thrrough the espresson machine. The set up is all wrong too, inefficiently laid out so as to delay coffees even longer. Most kiwi folks drink "flat white"s (espresso with steamed milk) or "long blacks" (an americano...) but lattes and cappucinos are popular.

Right now there is a short menu of hot foods: burgers, fries soup, toasted sandwiches etc and a kitchen to make the food as the orders arrive. Again, somewhat inefficient and cannot handle the volume of people. All this will changes soon as the cafe becomes buffet style. Picture a cafeteria rather than european style cafe and this is what we will become.

I've mostly been working with Martin, a 20 year old German philosopher type who is a perfectionist and insists on telling me that every coffee I make is wrong. (ahem.) and Kendall, nice bloke from Virgina who has good taste in music and a dry sense of humor. Rumor is there are two girls there as well but they have been on their days off.

I've met bunches of the "locals" many who have returned for another season or have lived here through the winter. There is a nice family vibe, and everyone seems to take care of one another. I don't have to pay to go on cruises, kayaking, and even helicopter rides! I can take the bus out of Milford for free as well. There are perks to being here indeed.

There is not a grocery, or a post office or book store in sight, but all and all a pretty cool place to be.

Off to my first Milford hike...

Cheers!

2005-09-29T04:14:00.000-05:00

By 4:30 I was picked up in the "Remarkables Shopping Center" outside of Queenstown yesterday. Two ski clad young men arrived, telling me that they were future boss and employer. My interview included, "do you need more time drinking your tea?". We drove into Queenstown, found Adam(boss)'s girlfirend Jo (who shares my birthday, 5 years previous... have had good luck with shared birthdays... best friend Dominique when I was 4 and boss Megan in North Carolina). The plan was to drive to Te Anau, drop off Adam and Jo and drive into Milford to get settled with Richard. The problem? We are in NZ. Te Anau, closest town to Milford (by 2 hours) was out of petrol.
We stayed there and I drove into Milford this morning instead. I got to see the white frosted fields leading to enormous heights of mountains seen only by the tiniest percentage of human inhabitants.

the thing that has impressed me most about NZ is the lack of people, of commercial attractions, of fast food and of billboards. There is beauty here beyond any I have seen, and not miles of sign posts announcing its arrival.

I got put onto a Milford Cruise and saw the entire fiord via water. Imagine hundreds upon hundreds of feet of green cliffs rising out of waters 400 meters deep. This is Milford sound.

There are a few boat companies, my lodge, and my cafe, a bar and that is it. It is a community of 200 people in the summer and 80 in the winter. We are run by generator. It turns off at 11.

Different from cambridge luxury, but then there is a river in my backyard and more stars than I have ever seen above my head. I pinched myself a few times today.

Is this real? Is this real?

2005-09-27T02:25:00.000-05:00

Heading to the Southland...

I am saying goodbye to this lovely green northern land and heading for the South Island tomorrow morning. I am quite excited to arrive in Queenstown "adventure capital of the world" but will be picked up by my new boss, Adam, and driven to Milford Sound. Over the past couple of weeks Milford has been built up in my mind as someplace other-worldly. Kiwi's that have traveled the world still say it is the most beautiful place they have seen. That is enough to keep me happy, even though I am finding the pace of Wellington quite enjoyable.

Wellington has a interesting vibe. Take the best parts of the best cities you have been to, put them together and you have Wellington. Funky cafes and restuarants line several main shopping streets,there are beautiful free museums lining the waterfront, there are playgrounds and art galleries every few feet and chic business people and artsy creative types dining on every corner. There is a beach within walking distance and a Mt.Victoria to climb giving you a 360 degree view of the greater Wellington area. Have a car and you will be in lush green farmland. A little further along and you will be hiking to a cliff overlooking the sea. Nightlife, daylife, good food, good people. What more could you ask for?

Am I keeping out of trouble? I would say yes, however did have my second run-in with the New Zealand police in the span of the 10 days I have been here. I met funny cute frenchman Ben in Taupo. On his way down to the south island he stopped again in Wellington to hang out with some of the other friends I have aquired. The next day, around 4 in the afternoon I recieved a text from him saying he was stuck in a car with a weird man named Jeff who had picked him up hitching and to call the police if I did not hear back. A while later I had not heard back. We could not reach him, nor could the police, but the tone of the messages were enough to make even the calmest of people worry. Turns out Ben is fine and the man was just a creep, but the police came to talk to me and find out if he was alright. Geesh! Embarrassing to have two cops barge into your hostel, inturrupting the common room to ask you to go to a quiet place to talk.

A few days ago a German girl was murdered who was hitchhiking alone. In the same week a German man and Australian man were mugged and beaten up in the streets. NZ is of course a safe place, but these incidents seem to have everyone on edge.I think I will be keeping my thumbs to myself. In any case, I don't have this driving on the left thing down yet. I would probably try to hitch myself right back to where I came from.

Cheers!

2005-09-23T04:02:00.000-05:00

It can't all be sunshine and walks in the park.

Finding a traveller who has not had some sort of emergency while away from family, friends and all that is known, is probably a difficult task. I guess I should count myself lucky that I have not been mugged, or forced into anything uncomfortable. At least there was not any dangerous confrontation. At least I still have my passport and bags and my voice.

I woke up on Thursday morning well rested after a wonderful night at the Mitai (pronounced MEE-tie). I was pumped to get on to Taupo, where they are offering cheap skydiving at this time of year. I checked out at 10 and trudged over to the cafe Indigo a few doors down. I bought a latte and some fruit and yogurt (a slight indulgence because food is so damned expensive, but felt lacking in essential healthy vitamins). I was reading contentedly outside for 20 minutes or so, when I saw some kids wandering around near by. I subconsciously took note of where my bags were, and everything looked safe. I returned to reading, then for no good reason decided to check for my wallet. It was gone. Those who know me and have travelled with me know that I consistently place things in different pockets and have mini panic attacks about 80 times a day thinking that I lost my passport/ticket/money etc. I was hoping this was one of those same cases. UNfortunately not.

After an hour at the police station on the phone with mastercard I recieved my complaint form and ran to the bus station to catch my bus to Taupo. I won't recount everything that happened, but it included some tears of frustration,annoyance,fear and lonliness. Several collect calls later I was able to get money wired to me there in Taupo. The whole thing has left a bad taste in my mouth. I decided to get out of that area, leaving sky diving and all other lake adventures for another time.

The thing about it is that I really don't want to be one of those annoying people who sees a teenager and thinks they are bad news. I guess I should not be so naive as to believe that none of them are trouble, particularily thirteen year old smoking ones on the street midday rather than at school.

I am in Wellington now, and witnessed one of the most beautiful bus rides of my life getting here. We drove through the Tongariro National park, where there are 4 beautiful snow capped volcanos lurking silently in the distance. New Zealand is amazing, green and rolling hills turn to rugged muddy mountains turn to huge flat dry grassy fields turn to volcanos breathing smoke.Amazing. All of these things and very few people make for some excellent vacationing.

http://www.doc.govt.nz/Explore/001~National-Parks/Tongariro-National-Park/index.asp

2005-09-20T21:37:00.000-05:00

Rotorua!!

I took the intercity bus from Auckland to Rotorua. We unfortunately broke down for an hour in Hobbitown, now famous for "movie set tour" where the woman at the information booth reminded travelers that "it doesn't look like it did in the movies." Hmmm. No thanks.

Rotorua is located on a bed of geo thermal activity on the ring of fire, where massive earth plates collide. There are pools of sulfurous boiling water and mud everywhere, and the town itself is rather unpleasantly perfumed.People mainly flock here for the spas, the interesting earth formations and the Maori cultural offerings. I went to the museum this morning and learned quite a bit. It is housed in the old curing bath house ... where people used to come from all over the world to bathe in the healing mineral rich waters.

Rotorua as a town is not very large, and there honestly is not a lot going on . I went to the grocery store (the Pak-n-Save where they do not have bags to put your goods in) and made myself a nice dinner then spent the evening watching movies at the hostel. Not very exciting, sorry.

I'm going to the Mitai tonight, which for a costly $75 you can see a maori village, hear stories and dance and experience the traditional hangi feast. Should be pretty cool!

Tomorrow I am heading to Lake Taupo, adventure capital of the north island. They offer the cheapest skydiving in the world! What kind of moron would I be to pass that up?

I talked to my future boss Adam, and he is going to arrange for my bus ride to Milford sometime next week from Queenstown. I am getting excited to havea home base and to meet my future coworkers, as well as settle into a routine where I feel less like a tourist.

Cheers to all! I got a cellphone, so if anyone wants to call me email me for the number.

2005-09-19T02:03:00.000-05:00

Kia Ora!

After 38 hours of constant travel, I made it safely and sleepily to Auckland. The voyage over was actually not so bad as I had anticipated, with a stop at the beach, a meal and shower and some friends along the way. I even got to see a golden moon low in the sky in Fiji, and birds come alive as the sun rose. I made friends with the Fijian coffee shop man Jim, met Kerry who has been showing me around Auckland and have had goot chats with kiwis of all ages.

Auckland has been pretty fun so far. I've met a lot of other travelers, scottish, irish, canadian. All very nice. I got a cell phone and bank account, drank some irish beer and have begun to sort out what NZ is all about. This afternoon I took the ferry over to Devonport with new friend Kerry and sat in a coffee shop drinking tea and eating yummy soup. The weather has been crap, but interesting too. Sunny, rainy, hailing and sunny again all in a matter of minutes.

I am heading to Rotorua tomorrow and am really excited! This seems to be a sort of mecca of Maori culture, and home of the famous Zorb.
Just one minute left...
will blog again soon!

Cheers!

2005-09-14T17:03:00.000-05:00

"And now I am a stranger from a long way away
And if I spoke your language there would still be nothing to say
Cause we all know tomorrow I'll be high over this place
And I can tell you one thing, if the world gives you wings, you open those
things, And you fly."

~~~~~~~~~~
My dad found this poem, written by a 8 year old version of myself on Monday Sep 11, 1989.

K ites, I like to fly.
A ir planes are neat to me.
R eading is really fun.
E ating is fun.
N uts are good.

E asy work I like best.
S chool is fun.
T eachers are nice to me.
E ggs are icky.
R eeces Piecies are good.
L aura is my sister.
Y ou might be in my class.

So, there it is. Little people know alot about themselves. Not much has changed.

I fly out tomorrow morning... goodbye America!

2005-09-13T17:00:00.000-05:00

Quick rant:

Is it just me or are those code word message things getting harder and harder to read? When they first started appearing they were pretty obvious. Lately, I get them all wrong. It is like the feeling you have when you are at the eye doctor and can't quite see the words and then the doctor tells you that you have to try harder.

That actually happened. "Uh, I just can't see it. That's why I am here."

2005-09-13T13:16:00.001-05:00

Life is a Mystery.

In the essence of saving money I purchased a 8:40 am flight from Manchester-Chicago-LA. I get in to LAX at 1:30 pst. I leave LAX at 11:40 pst (2:40 AM my time people). This means that I have 10 glorious hours to ponder my decision and grow tired and irritable dealing with highly over priced and pre wrapped airport food, strangers bumping into me, stale air and uncomfortable chairs. I may just have to break out of there for some fresh (smoggy) air. Luckily, Jesse will be in LA and may be able to meet me for a drink or bite before boarding. It would be nice to have some last minute reassurance that I am not making some dreadful mistake.

I packed my bag!(mostly) Somehow I, the girl who brings the same size backpack for a weekend in the mountains, managed to fit everything in one bag. I probably brought too many pairs of underwear and too few socks, but the real miracle is that four seasons and multiple climates have condensed into the space of 60 cubic inches.

My last weekend in Mass was perfect. It is incredible, the amazing people who have accumulated there and whom I have had the privilege of knowing. Thanks to all of you who made it out to say goodbye. I think every time I hear "Like a Prayer" it will be your voice I hear, like angels sighing. I have no choice I hear your voice. Feels like flying. I close my eyes. Oh god I think I'm falling, out of the sky, I close my eyes....

You'll take me there.

2005-09-07T17:15:00.000-05:00

The Katrina footage is endless and endlessly horrifying. The papers
are sprawled with death counts and editorials placing blame, pointing
fingers and asking "why Why WHY?" There are a few stories of hope- a
boy reunited, a dog saved, a baby born... and then there are the
stories of police officers committing suicide because it was just too
much.
It is sobering and it is hard to avoid the immediate guilt associated
with disasters like these. What made me so lucky to be born here,
rather than New Orleans or Sudan or Afghanistan? I often joke that I
was born under a lucky star. My parents laugh that "you always manage
to land on your feet." I wonder is it some series of lives and
tragedies that i have lived prior to this one? Is it chance? Or is my
own hurricane headed this way? It is enough to wake me up some nights.
In the meantime, I guess all I can do is live hopefully. I am thankful
for my rights, my freedoms, my health, friends and family. I am
consistently awed by the generosity of spirits that I have
encountered and learned from. Thanks to all who have contributed to a
better me and a better world.
And i will continue to believe that there will be sweeter times
ahead, for the victims of the hurricane and for every struggle, there
has got to be a lull and some laughter. It is the ebb and flow.

2005-09-03T12:53:00.000-05:00

Check it out:

I will probably be working here:

http://www.milfordlodge.com/index.html

Photo gallery has some pretty stunning pictures.

(i am excited, can ya tell?)

2005-09-03T11:00:00.000-05:00

"Excuse me, How do you get to Heathrow from here?"

I had my first of many pre-trip jittery dreams. This time I was in London flying a kite,but needing to catch my flight to LAX to make the connecting flight to NZ and realizing that I hadn't left nearly enough time to get to the airport on time.

SO, I am moving out officially today!

Goodbye Cambridge! I will miss the horrible stench of Brookline Street, the bluesy goodness of the Cantab lounge, the late night nutrition of a Hi-Fi pizza slice, the beautifully blended Mojitos at Zuzu, the crack addicts and homeless vets hanging out on Mass Ave, the screaming and abusive neighbors, the Middle East's close proximity, Moody's Falafel Palace's falafel sandwich with hummus and hot sauce, the City Hall lawn, Trader Joe's three buck chuck and most of all, I will miss Melissa and Meg, best roommates a girl could ask for.

FYI- My couch is still for sale. Anyone interested?

(The second half of Phish's 'Divided Sky' is making me very happy at this moment.)

2005-08-30T16:10:00.000-05:00

Sonnet: Kuru, my freedom, my joy.

It was the year of two thousand and one
and President Bush inaugurated.
I had not wheels to place under my bum
leaving me trapped, quite sad and frustrated.

"I must find a way to get where I need;
for food and classes and friends far away.
A car I must have!"And did I succeed?
Kuru, red Focus, dream car still today.

Through winters and springs, fair trips to the sea,
My car, my love,together we frolicked.
Though dented and scratched up she still pleased me,
But I sold her today. I should be kicked!

Now to a land where they drive on the left,
but I'll think of Kuru each day 'til death.

2005-08-30T15:13:00.000-05:00

Say it ain't so...

There is such a sense of euphoria that comes over me when driving on the highway, windows down, belting love ballads at full volume. Johnny Lang's 'Breakin' Me" or Bonnie Raitt's "I Can't Make You Love Me..." at full blast send shivers down my spine. I am so very sad to let go of my car... They say you can't put a price on sentimental value. I wish this wasn't so. I would have a lot more money coming in for my little darling Kuru than the $4700 I will agree to sell her for. I have been debating as to whether I should bring with me a list of questions for prospective buyer of my car...

1. Have you ever been in an accident before? Was it your fault? Are YOU A BAD DRIVER?

2. Will you be subjecting my car to any unneeded embarrassment, ie, painting it with puppy dogs for a doggie day care service?

3. Do you have children? If so, will they be allowed in this car? With sticky hands?

3. Will you solemnly swear to uphold the integrity of this vehicle by providing proper oil changes and services?

If so, by the power vested in me, the owner... etc.

(I think there will be music when I actually sign over the title, but not sure what tune yet. Suggestions?)

She is in her 'sunday best' today... meeting with my first prospective buyer in 35 minutes.

2005-08-29T12:26:00.000-05:00

"They built their homes on sand and called the slip and slide adventure." Julia Alvarez

I very clearly remember a conversation I had three years ago on the rocks of a beach in Rye with a very amazing person. I was asked what I feared most in the world, and my answer came out before I had time to question it's truth. "Being normal." It seems easier for me to know what I don't want,rather than what I do. Why New Zealand? Why not? A few years later, I'll modify the verb from 'being' to 'living' normally. I am terrified of settling down. Constant movement is the only way to avoid this. I don't think I am running from anything or anyone. I think I just am afraid that if I stay in one place I will not be able to run away, and the thought of that makes me want to strap roller skates to my feet as added precaution. I wonder if they make roller sneakers in adult sizes?

"...And I will live with empty pockets, and I will live with empty sleeves, and I will know that there is nothing in this world I cannot leave. I will tell my friends I love them and I will just hope that they know that I need nobody beside me on this open road..."

Anyway, this was a great weekend. Saw the Peanut Man at the Cantab friday night, went to a neighborhood block party in Cambridge on Saturday,
Dave and Meg

followed by dinner at Piatinni with the very sexy and fabulous Shana Fox and Kristi Day

and celebrated Emily's last weekend afterwards dancing in fanuiel hall. Sunday Laura and Andy hosted a garden party, with fabulous food and mojitos.

2005-08-24T09:42:00.000-05:00

Milford Sound, summer home.

Very exciting news. I got a job! I will be making my way down to Milford Sound by October to work at a restaurant/cafe called the Blue Duck, or the Milford lodge. Milford is in the fiordland of south western New Zealand, "a series of rugged ranges and valleys, green with beech trees and brimming with waterfalls that spill into the sea." The fiordland is NZ's largest national park and also the least touristed destination. Plenty of hiking and kayaking and things of the sort. There is even mention of penguins!

(flashback to this year's summer party at the aquarium. Adrienne and I were spellbound by those sleepy little penguin creatures... then drunkenly proceeded to crawl up the ramp on hands and knees past the security guard. We saw a pretty damn large turtle. Highlight of the night.)

http://www.fiordland.org.nz/Explore-Fiordland/Milford-Sound/Default.asp

2005-08-23T15:21:00.000-05:00

Wet flakes.

Friday afternoon, as I was packed and pumped to spend a few days hiking and slumbering in the Pemigewasset wilderness, I decided last minute, to check the weather forecast. Now, if I was my roommate Melissa, this would have been done hourly for several days prior to our Friday departure, but unfortunately I am not Melissa. I saw sunshine outside, and so assumed there would be sunshine up north, and all across the world. I am sure you can see where this is heading. The forecast called for showers,rain, and thunderstorms (all variations of REALLY WET).

But of course the weather report is often wrong. I took a class in college aptly named "Weather", and though I still have no idea how cold fronts work or what El Nino is... I did take away the very important knowledge that you really can't forecast the weather. They are guessing. Every time.

We drove north and stayed in Chico's friend's brand new beautiful cabin. Saturday we woke up bright and early, ready to attack the 7 miles into where we would be sleeping, come rain or snow. As we were getting in the truck I realized, oops! I had forgotten my hiking boots in the trunk of my car three hours away. No worries though, I am a go-with-the-flow kind of girl. I had my spiffy new keen's, the trail was relativley flat and my ankles are relitively sturdy. Minor setback.

We got to the trail as the sky continued to darken. A mile in and it felt like eight at night, not ten in the morning. I tried praying to the heavens, but it seems someone was pleading more urgently for a downpour. It came. And kept coming. At franconia falls, about 3.5 miles in, I wimpily informed Chico that I would not be sleeping in the rain. My feet were wet. I was cold. And the thought of setting up camp in a puddle did not sound as appealing as another night in a dry cozy cabin with great a fireplace , good book and wine. We hiked out.

A few hours later we had built a great bonfire in the cabin's backyard. We were under the stars (in a brief intermission between storms) I had eaten my third s'more, I was kicking butt in my firemaking abilities, I was half way through "Mutant Message Down Under" (amazing book! read it read it), listening to "the Notch" radio station on surround sound (which by the way is one of the best station's I have ever heard. Rumor is some rich dude moved up north and started this radio station with just the music he had always wanted to be played without annoying commercials every 2 seconds). It was perfect.

So moral of the story is, I am a flake. I know many of you know this about me already when I have conversations like:

me- "I lost my wallet!"
friend- "I am not surprised."

But,being a flake isn't so bad. There are certainly worse things to be. So, I think it is time for me to accept this about myself.I CHOOSE TO EMBRACE MY FLAKINESS.

2005-08-19T13:20:00.000-05:00

2:49 am

This was the time I wiped my nose of snot and blotted my eyes of tears and got up to shut off the light. Oh, the addiciton that is a good book! If you haven't read it yet, shame on you. The Kite Runner is everything people say, beautiful, heart breaking and impossible to put down.

It has been a good and somewhat productive week for myself. Managed to see loads of family and friends, pack a bit, read two books, (other being the catcher in the rye... absurd that I have lived through 24 yrs as an english major and active reader without having read it...) buy new zealand gear (yay new pack and blue KEEN shoes!),lay on the beach, drink coffee with long lost UNH italy alum in Portsmouth, change my oil, get my car inspected, order a car mirror and make an appointment to have it installed, apply for a job and get ready to spend a few days in the woods.

Amazing what you can accomplish when you don't have that little thing called a "job" taking up all of your time.

Unfortunately, the anxiety of watching your bank account slip down to just over $100 is somewhat sobering... By the way, anyone want to purchase my fine little red vehicle? Contact me for details...

2005-08-15T13:02:00.000-05:00

Packing...

Inevitably you will find items that make you cry. Maybe sob. Letters. Emails. Post cards. Journals. Bottles. Armbands. Chapstick. Stones. Rubber balls. Receipts. Sea shells.

This is the proof of your existence. This is the stuff of love and friendship. This is the ghost of you. This is the memory of laughter.

2005-08-12T14:57:00.000-05:00

Wow. My first blog. This is exhilerating.

What better way to spend my last lonely day at my job than this? I am running out of ways to keep myself amused in-office. My weeks post- Costa Rica have been certifiably useless in the name of sales. But who cares! I am done! I have sucessfully and dare I say, gracefully, exited my first real job experience. A good experience overall... if for the mere reason that I now know what I had always presumed, that I hate office jobs.
So a month from today I will be leaving to go to San Diego for a day or two before boarding a plane to the lush green hills of New Zealand. This date is no longer distant. And about time. I have been stewing over an escape like this for over a year now. All I can wonder is, why did I wait so long?

My beautiful friend Leigh is coming to Boston tonight! I am looking forward to a few days being giggly and fabulous with her- reminicing about our childhood pillow brawls (kids, do try this at home. Each of you get one normal sized pillow and pillow case. With fluffy side on your face, wiggle raised arms (bent at elbows) until you are completely inside the pillow. At agreed upon start time begin whacking the hell out of eachother. I guarentee you will be more paralyzed by laughter than by blows to the body), as well as our more mischevoius encounters with highly attractive artist tico boys under full moons in Costa Rica.

leigh and margaritas-samara, costa rica

Anyway, these are a few things that have kept me amused recently.

Today only! call 1800-665-5364 and listen to EF's customer service make asses of themselves as they f up the "we are out of the office" message. Ha. Good chuckle.

bigger and better inspiration:http://www.goingpostal3000.com/05-07/one-red-paperclip.html

www.couchsurfing.com

And now, out to lunch with fellow quitter Emily, moving to Chicago to work for the competition. good luck Em!

Karen